Leeks, the towering allium

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Eat leeks in tide and garlic in May, and all the year after physicians may play.
— Russian proverb

The leek is a cultivar of Allium ampeloprasum, the broadleaf wild leek. Leeks grow tall, and look like a giant green onion. The tender white stalks are the prized anatomy chefs seek. The white stem is sometimes encouraged by blanching—when the plants are growing, the stems are covered. Blocking the sun from the stems yields a more tender stalk.

The name 'leek' developed from the Old English word leac, from which the modern English name of garlic also derives. The Hebrew Bible talks of חציר, identified by commentators as leek, and says it is abundant in Egypt. Dried specimens from archaeological sites in ancient Egypt, as well as wall carvings and drawings, indicate that the leek was a part of the Egyptian diet from at least the second millennium BCE. Texts also show that it was grown in Mesopotamia from the beginning of the second millennium BCE. The leek was the favorite vegetable of the Emperor Nero, who consumed it in soup or in oil, believing it beneficial to the quality of his voice.

You can start leeks from seed, indoors in the summer. When they are about pencil-sized, in the fall, plant them out in the garden. October is a great time, though September is fine too. Plants are often available as small starts in 4” pots, or they can be obtained as small pencil sized plants from various companies that offer onions and garlic. Make sure you give them enough time to develop fully.

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When you plant the leeks out to their final location, give them enough space to grow, as they get pretty large. Plant in full sun, in well-drained, well-amended soil. Feed occasionally with a balanced organic food, mulch the roots, and if you want, wrap the stalks as the plants get bigger to keep them tender.

Harvest when they look ready to eat.

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Katherine Gierlach