The Artichoke & the Cardoon

Artichoke flower

Artichoke flower

Cynara is a genus of thistle-like perennial plants in the sunflower family. They are native to the Mediterranean region, the Middle East, northwestern Africa, and the Canary Islands. The genus name comes from the Greek kynara, which means "artichoke". There are 11 species, but two are commonly available to grow in the garden.

The two main cultivar groups are the cardoon (C. cardunculus var. altilis), selected for edible leaf stems, and the artichoke (C. cardunculus var. scolymus), selected for larger edible flower buds. The wild species that these two edible plants were selected from are smaller and much more spiny.

A mature artichoke plant.

A mature artichoke plant.

Most people in the United States are probably somewhat familiar with the artichoke, though the domestic art of cooking one properly is probably a lot more rare. Even more unfamiliar with many is the cardoon, which is delicious if prepared correctly. The part of the artichoke normally consumed is the flower bud, while with the cardoon it is the thickened midribs of the leaves. Now, the buds of cardoon are still edible, but not as large.

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Cardoon plant growing.

The flower buds of wild cardoons are still widely collected and used in southern Italy and Sicily. In Spain and Portugal, the flower buds are also employed in cheesemaking: the pistils of the cardoon flower are used as a vegetable rennet in the making of some cheeses such as the Torta del Casar and the Torta de la Serena cheeses in Spain, or the Queijo de Nisa and Serra da Estrela cheeses in Portugal. Cardoon is one of the herbs used to flavor various brands of amaro liqueur, and. is the main flavor in the amaro Cynar.

Both crops are perennial plants and both take a few seasons, depending on conditions, to flower. These plants actively grow throughout the fall, winter, and spring, and bloom in early summer. They may go dormant in summer, especially if they have put a lot of energy into blooming, but usually re-emerge in fall. Protect plants from hard frosts—they can take a frost, but will have cosmetic damage and look bad if allowed to freeze. Covering them will keep them looking good, but if they DO get damaged, they will grow out of that damage quickly.

The flower bud is the preferred edible part of the artichoke.

The flower bud is the preferred edible part of the artichoke.

Both artichoke and cardoon take up a good amount of space in the garden, growing about 3’ high and wide, though they can potentially grow as wide as 4’ and with blooms, reach 6’ tall. Make sure when planting them, that they have enough room to develop fully without shading out other crops. Once established an artichoke plant can remain productive for four to seven years.

Artichoke and cardoon prefer full sun and deep, fertile, well-drained soils high in organic matter. Feed regularly with an organic fertilizer that emphasizes phosphorus (the middle number). They like steady moisture availability. As the plants grow, they will form small colonies. Artichoke plants should be divided every 3-5 years.

For the artichoke, you will collect the flower bud before it blooms. If left to flower, the plant will produce a large purple thistle that can be dried and used in arrangements. If you harvest all the flowering heads, artichokes may send up a second crop of flowers in the fall.

Cardoon should be blanched—try wrapping the stems with repurposed materials.

Cardoon should be blanched—try wrapping the stems with repurposed materials.

For the cardoon, the leaf stalks can be collected at almost any time they are of size—but blanching the stems will produce a better-tasting result. Blanch stems by covering them; you can wrap them with cloth or paper, or some people will bury the plants with a thick layer of straw. In the old days in Italy plants were buried in more loose soil.

There are a few other species of Cynara besides the species that produce artichoke and cardoon. Cynara humilis is a wild thistle of southern Europe and north Africa which is used in cheesemaking like C. cardunculus. Cynara cornigera leaves and flowers are eaten raw or cooked in Crete.

Some videos to coach you on preparation of both artichoke and cardoon.

Katherine Gierlach