The diversity of the chicory and endive plant
It’s pretty incredible what humans have done with the chicory and endive plants.
There are a few wild species of Cicorium that are the progenitors of our domestic varieties, or related to those progenitors. Especially wild versions of Cicorium intybus and C. pumilum. A total of ten species are recognized by science.
Wild chicory is edible raw, but wild chicory leaves usually have a bitter taste, especially the older leaves. The flavor is appreciated in certain cuisines, such as in the Ligurian and Apulian regions of Italy and also in the southern part of India. In most cases the plant is cooked, sometimes with a few exchanges of water, and several other ingredients added—a far cry from the tender pan di Zucchero or “sugar loaf” chicory.
A wild Chicorium pumilum in Cyprus
In recent times, it has been the Italians (especially in northern Italy) who have really innovated these crops—selecting for color, shape, succulence, and other traits depending on use. These are not just salad greens for the Italians, but food delivery systems for things like anchovy and charcuterie. Crops that hail from northern Italy even have protection by the EU, designating them as specific to a particular region which cannot be marketed under their official title if grown elsewhere. The French, Dutch, Germans, and Belgians have also innovated this vegetable somewhat.
But there are two species that are primarily eaten today, and try not to be confused as there is some crossover in the colloquial names. Chicory (C. intybus) is the species that houses most of our cultivated varieties. But endives (C. endivia) includes a few crops as well.
TYPES OF cichorium
chicory
Cichorium intybus
Native to Europe but now naturalized all over the world. This is the most common plant referred to as chicory, and the most diversity has been derived from this species. This species is originally from Europe and northern parts of Africa, but is now widespread, found all over the world, mostly on roadsides and disturbed soils. The history gets a little murky—ancient Greek texts mention these plants, but it is often unclear whether the reference is to this species or endives (Cichorium endivia) which we will talk about later. The wild chicory plants have thin leaves with prominent ribs, and a taproot.
root chicory
Root chicories are an old root vegetable that can be used like many root vegetables: roasted, boiled, even mashed, though best sautéed in olive oil or butter with garlic. But root chicory was an obscure crop until some people in Holland innovated the method of roasting and powdering the roots to mimic the rich taste of coffee. Did I use the verb “innovate”? If this product somehow magically had caffeine, it would be an innovation, indeed. But it does not. Chicory coffee is a thumb in the nose at lucidity and even life. It is the very definition of purgatory.
Napoleon wanted France to be self-sufficient, economically. To eliminate coffee imports, chicory was cruelly used as a complete substitute. While this system did not last more than a few years, the self-punishing French continued to use chicory to blend with their coffee. This practice would migrate to the still French-influenced New Orleans and is still considered the normal New Orleans-style of coffee. With each World War, and the interruption in trade that accompanies such wars, chicory would find itself in the cups of the caffeine-deprived.
In the 20th century the modern form of capitalism was really taking hold in the United States. In all its efforts to cut corners and save money, coffee products were increasingly adulterated with chicory. It is still found in many of the cheap commodity, pre-ground coffees on the market because Americans are so fond of consuming inferior products en masse and so many of them would rather suffer in a cubicle with half of their neurons firing.
Despite this unfortunate history, chicory root is a great root vegetable, and very easy to grow.
Italian dandelion, catalogna
Despite it being a weed all over the world, the true dandelion (Taraxacum officinale, and related species) is difficult to grow in southern Arizona, liking climates with more moisture. People have, however, been cultivating the “Italian dandelion” for a while in our region. There are a few similar varieties of this vegetable, some more developed than others—it is most often sold as “Italian dandelion” or Catalogna chicory. Sometimes it is called wild selvatica da campo. This vegetable is the closest to the truly wild Cicorium intybus. It packs a lot of bitterness, which some of us really appreciate. The best of chefs can harness this crop’s bitter attributes to great effect—hint: lots of fat and salt.
radicchio
The red ball radicchio is the most famous of the chicories. Northern Italy grows many varieties that can only be grown in a particular province of the region, where it is believed to be developed. Some hybrids of those traditional varieties have recently emerged. The new varieties have a diverse array of colors, and variations of head-type or loose-leaf types. The bright reds, pinks, yellows, and whites seen in the finished product is due to some amount of blanching or forcing (described in more detail below), which is depriving some light from the crop to de-emphasize the green parts of the leaves. These blanching techniques also calm down the more bitter elements of the crop and bring out the sweetness that underlies the bitter. This group has the most diversity.
rosso di treviso
One could come up with a lot of metaphors for the history of this cultivar. Treviso has gained some recent admiration from chefs around the world. It is all the rage in the heirloom gardening world too. But rosso di treviso is historically the predecessor of radicchio. Farmers of yesteryear worked so hard to breed away the thick midrib and tufted (not headed) growth form, which is how we ended up with the perfect ball that the radicchio is. Some farmers in Italy stubbornly clung to the old style, which generally comes in two forms—the tardivo (meaning late) and the precoce (meaning early). Depending on what you are doing, and when you are planting, you can grow either of the two in our region. The tardivo has more unruly midrib than the precoce, and the precoce does better in the heat.
Pan di Zucchero
Pan di zucchero is also called “sugarloaf” chicory. This is perhaps the most delicate-flavored, and sweet of the chicories. This is an upright, light green variety with large, long tight heads. The flavor is similar to the Belgian endive, but without the work of forcing (again, discussed below). If you aren’t one for experimentation and extended homesteading techniques, but you love Belgian endive, you should grow this one.
puntarelle and other stem chicories
Now widespread throughout Italy, puntarelle originated along the Catalonia coastline of Lazio Gaeta, northwest of Naples and for a long time this vegetable was cultivated in only three regions: Apulia, Campania and Lazio. Puntarelle was developed from the more wild catalogna version of chicory. In English speaking countries Puntarelle is sometimes referred to as asparagus chicory, a result of the shoots appearance which is reminiscent of asparagus spears. Puntarelle grows much like a catalogna chicory until it is about to bloom or bolt—the shoots that emerge from the center of the plant are unusually thickened. Some varieties called puntarelle are just catalogna varieties with thicker midribs. Those growing Puntarelle are interested in the thick, white, stems of leaves and bloom stalks that are sliced up, often soaked in ice water, and eaten as a salad—dressed in a few different ways (of which there is considerable argument as to what is the “only” way to eat puntarelle). Ingredients suggested are olive oil, vinegar, garlic, salt, and of course anchovies.
Belgian endive
The name here is confusing, because endive usually refers to the other species of Cichorium discussed below. But this crop was developed in Belgium, and quite by accident. It was 1830 in Brussels, when a grower by the name of Jan Lammers left his farm to fight in the Belgian War of Independence. He left chicory root in his cellar with plans to dry and roast them to make a coffee substitute. When he returned months later, he discovered white leaves had sprouted. Upon tasting it, he realized the leaves were crunchy and tasty. A Belgian botanist named Brézier then went on to refine the cultivation of this delicacy to the point where it could be grown commercially. Markets in Brussels began carrying endive in 1846, and then in 1872 it was introduced in Paris and it became so popular that it was nicknamed “white gold.” Belgian endive is now found everywhere. In the United States, most people use it as a salad green. But the Belgian endive has much more use: sautéed with butter, braised, grilled, and added to soups and stews, pastas, quiches and sandwiches.
If you want to attempt at growing your own Belgian endive, you will need to do more than just grow it in the garden. This crop is specifically “forced” to create the tender, crunchy vegetable we love. Process described below.
Zuccherina & Spadona
Spadona chicory and other loose-leaf chicory varieties are very popular in Europe and mostly with home growers. The bitter, leafy greens appear on menus in the form of salads, sautéed or braised greens, and in sauces. Spadona chicory is considered an old-world mainstay of poor-man’s cooking or ‘cucina povera’. Spadona chicory is native to the Veneto region of northern Italy which includes the city of Venice and sits on the coast of the Adriatic Sea. Zuccherina chicory is similar but with wider leaves.
Both of these crops are grown for their ability to regrow after harvesting; leaves are cut to the ground and the taproot resprouts. In our region, this can be repeated until plants bolt in late spring/early summer.
ENdive & Escarole
Chichorium endivia
This species has been cultivated in Europe since the 16th century—it is unclear whether the Egyptians were growing this crop, or C. intybus, but many believe this species is what the Egyptians were growing. It is likely a hybrid of C. intybus and C. pumilum.
endive/frisée & Escarole
The many varieties of C. endivia are from two groups, the curly-leaved or narrow-leaved endive (Cichorium endivia var. crispa), and the Batavian or broad-leaved escarole (Cichorium endivia var. latifolia). The lighter, frilly endive, also called frisée, is most often used raw, in salads. The more substantial escarole is usually cooked, a great addition to soups, stews, sautés, or wilted into pasta. The inner leaves of escarole are usually more tender and used in salads. Though these crops originated in Italy in some of their early forms, it has been the French and other Europeans who have selected these crops into what they are today.
Growing the cichorium species
Radicchio growing, unblanched
In southern Arizona, both species are grown as cool season annuals—though C. intybus is actually a perennial (C. endivia is dependably annual). Plants can be seeded as early as August or September, and successions can be reseeded throughout the cool season, giving enough time for each variety to develop. Most varieties hold up to heat pretty well, and will last until late spring when they start bolting. A few varieties can last into early summer. Starter plants are usually available in October and following throughout the cool season.
Plant in full to part sun. Amended garden soil is best. Though Cichorium species don’t require a very rich soil, they certainly benefit from some enriching. Some have the goal of developing the tap root—either growing root chicory, or preparing one of the chicories for forcing. If this is the goal, as with many root crops, take care not to add too much nitrogen to the soil, and emphasize phosphorus. Bone meal, bat guano, crab and shrimp waste are some good sources of organic phosphorus.
Grumolo verde
If growing for the foliage, one should make sure there is plenty of nitrogen. Feeding occasionally with kelp and/or fish emulsion will make plants especially lush and productive.
All Cichoriums appreciate well-drained, evenly moist soil. Cold weather in our region is no issue for these plants—most varieties actually improve in flavor with some cold or frost. Occasionally the tips of leaves may wilt and turn brown, but the plant quickly outgrows any of this minor damage. These plants get few to no pests—outside of an occasional potato bug. The more frilly varieties like frisée can get dirty because of their low-growing habit, and may need some thorough cleaning before consumption. We find that they are so delicious, that it’s worth the trouble.
Radicchio plants, tied up to blanch the hearts
Many of the Cichorium varieties will not resemble the picture on the seed packet because they are destined for blanching: if your goal is to blanch, you can tie up the outside of the foliage of many varieties to deprive the middle of the plant of sun—this is the more simple way to achieve photosynthesis deprivation and thus, the tight heads with little green.
Belgian endive roots, trimmed, ready to be planted indoors: “forced”
If you are feeling more adventurous and confident, you can try true forcing, where plants are grown until a significant tap root is formed, unearthed and cut off from the base, and planted in dirt or compost indoors. Forced plants will regrow utilizing the starches in the roots instead of photosynthesis, and thus the heads lacking green coloring. They may develop a slimy exterior on exterior leaves during this process, but with cleaning, will yield something similar to the Belgian endive found in stores. Some types of radicchio are also forced in this way.
Blanching done the easy way, on frisée
One other easier method of blanching is to put an inverted pot over the developing plant, thus cutting it off from too much light.
Harvesting of puntarelle begins when the plant begins to bolt
Almost all Cichorium varieties will end the season with beautiful, blue flowers that are loved by pollinators. Even puntarelle will eventually produce blue flowers, though their bloom stalks are swollen and usually the goal of the grower—you will harvest Puntarelle Brindisina when it begins to bolt, but hasn’t developed the flowers.
All Cichoriums end in a gorgeous blue flower
Harvesting and using Cichoriums
Most of these crops are used as fresh as possible. The thicker-leafed varieties, and blanched varieties last the longest in the refrigerator. I always wait until I am just about to eat the plants before I pick them. Because I like bitter greens, I don’t usually blanch my plants, though sometimes I try this just for fun.
The best Cichoriums for cooking are escarole, Belgian endive, and Pan di Zucchero, or really any of the varieties that have thicker leaves. Cooking usually involves quick braising with butter or olive oil.
Charred Belgian endive with anchovy butter
Puntarelle is the one weirdo that takes some extra steps: the stems and swollen flower stalks are cut into thin strips and often soaked in cold water (this is only done if you mind some bitterness, which I don’t). The strips are then dressed as needed—I like garlic infused butter and anchovy paste, but you do you.
The traditional puntarelle alla romana with anchovy vinaigrette
Most of the smaller-leafed Cichoriums are great delivery mechanisms for cheese, dips, charcuterie or pate. The combination of bitter and sweet in the leaves is a great balance to salty and fatty foods.
For those who hate life, and want to replace their coffee with a half life, here is homemade powdered chicory
If you love to self-punish and want to make chicory coffee on purpose, you can unearth the plants when the roots are developed, clean thoroughly, and roast at 300°F until roots are dry—how roasted you allow them to get is up to personal taste. Once the roots are dehydrated, they can be pulverized into a powder and used to adulterate your coffee.
I think a better use of chicory roots is to eat them—cook them as you would parsnips, burdock, or carrots. Better yet, cook them slowly in oil or butter with garlic. Yum.